The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (2024)

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (1)

Family Journey

Spanish Empire (present-day southern Italy)Çanakkale, TurkeyChicago

Los AngelesNew York City

5 recipes

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (2)

Meat Bourekas

About 40 borekas1 h active + 8 h inactive

Ingredients

For the masa (dough)

  • 1 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 cup water
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 5 cups all purpose flour

For the beef filling

  • 1 pound ground chuck beef
  • 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
  • ½ cup water
  • ¼ cup finely chopped parsley
  • 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon matzo meal or breadcrumbs
  • 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled and finely chopped
  • 1 uncooked egg

For egg wash

  • 2 eggs

Cook

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (3)

Keftes (Leek and Beef Patties)

4-6 portions2 h

Ingredients

  • 4 leeks, trimmed, halved lengthwise then crosswise, and rinsed of all sand
  • 1 pound ground chuck beef
  • ½ cup matzo meal or breadcrumbs
  • ½ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

To finish

  • 3 eggs
  • 1 cup matzo cake meal or flour
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup canned tomato puree

Cook

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (4)

Stewed String Beans With Tomatoes

4-6 servings1 h

Ingredients

  • 1 pound fresh string beans, trimmed and cut in half crosswise if they’re very long
  • ½ cup canned tomato puree
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoons olive oil
  • ½ cup water

For garnish (optional)

  • 1 lemon
  • Ground aleppo pepper
  • ¼ bunch of fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

Cook

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (5)

Spinach Fritada

4-6 servings1 h

Ingredients

  • 1 pound/ 12 cups tightly packed raw spinach, roughly chopped
  • 7 eggs, beaten
  • ¼ cup matzo meal or breadcrumbs
  • 2 cups grated parmesan cheese
  • 1 ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • Sour cream or yogurt for serving

Cook

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (6)

Travados de Muez (Sweet Walnut-Filled Bourekas)

About 50 travados1 h and 30 min + resting, baking and cooling time

Ingredients

For the dough

  • 2 cups Mazola corn oil
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 cup water
  • 7-8 cups all purpose flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda

For the filling

  • 3 cups raw walnuts, finely chopped
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • ½ -1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2 eggs, beaten (reserve a tablespoon for assembly)

For the syrup

  • ¾ cup granulated sugar
  • ¾ cup honey
  • ¾ cup water
  • Juice of ¼ lemon

Cook

1

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (7)

Meat Bourekas

About 40 borekas1 h active + 8 h inactive

Ingredients

For the masa (dough)

  • 1 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 cup water
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 5 cups all purpose flour

For the beef filling

  • 1 pound ground chuck beef
  • 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
  • ½ cup water
  • ¼ cup finely chopped parsley
  • 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon matzo meal or breadcrumbs
  • 2 hard boiled eggs, peeled and finely chopped
  • 1 uncooked egg

For egg wash

  • 2 eggs

Cook

2

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (8)

Keftes (Leek and Beef Patties)

4-6 portions2 h

Ingredients

  • 4 leeks, trimmed, halved lengthwise then crosswise, and rinsed of all sand
  • 1 pound ground chuck beef
  • ½ cup matzo meal or breadcrumbs
  • ½ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

To finish

  • 3 eggs
  • 1 cup matzo cake meal or flour
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup canned tomato puree

Cook

3

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (9)

Stewed String Beans With Tomatoes

4-6 servings1 h

Ingredients

  • 1 pound fresh string beans, trimmed and cut in half crosswise if they’re very long
  • ½ cup canned tomato puree
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoons olive oil
  • ½ cup water

For garnish (optional)

  • 1 lemon
  • Ground aleppo pepper
  • ¼ bunch of fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

Cook

4

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (10)

Spinach Fritada

4-6 servings1 h

Ingredients

  • 1 pound/ 12 cups tightly packed raw spinach, roughly chopped
  • 7 eggs, beaten
  • ¼ cup matzo meal or breadcrumbs
  • 2 cups grated parmesan cheese
  • 1 ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • Sour cream or yogurt for serving

Cook

5

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (11)

Travados de Muez (Sweet Walnut-Filled Bourekas)

About 50 travados1 h and 30 min + resting, baking and cooling time

Ingredients

For the dough

  • 2 cups Mazola corn oil
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 cup water
  • 7-8 cups all purpose flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda

For the filling

  • 3 cups raw walnuts, finely chopped
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • ½ -1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 2 eggs, beaten (reserve a tablespoon for assembly)

For the syrup

  • ¾ cup granulated sugar
  • ¾ cup honey
  • ¾ cup water
  • Juice of ¼ lemon

Cook

Food stylist Victoria Granof remembers cousins from a vast family network in France, Venezuela, Peru, and the U.S. appearing at her dinner table in Los Angeles when she was little. The visiting relatives, “were always modified by their parent’s names,” she explains, like aunt Regina’s Albert and aunt Alegra’s Albert.

In her family, newborns are named for the living — a tradition common in some Sephardic communities — meaning many relatives share their names. Her great-great-grandmother was Victoria Sarah, while her great-grandmother was Rachel Victoria, her grandmother Victoria Rachel, her mother Leah Victoria, and she is Victoria Leah. “It’s really complicated,” she concedes.

It wasn’t just names that were shared across this family tree, it was recipes, some from southern Italy when it was under Spanish control, and others from Turkey where her family lived for generations.

Victoria remembers a particular dinner when her cousin Arlet came to visit from Paris. Victoria’s mother made an elegant, mid-century American meal, while her grandmother, who she called nonie, brought a second dinner of Sephardic recipes in Corningware over to the house — much to the embarrassment of Victoria’s mother who thought it wasn’t sophisticated fare.

The Sephardic food was left in the kitchen, at first, and “There was kind of a disconnect there until that food came out,” Victoria explains. When it was served, it was clear that everyone at the table was family, she adds. It sparked memories that Arlet shared of other relatives making the same recipes and the days after World War II when they replaced expensive walnuts in sweets called travados de muez with more economical breadcrumbs.

Victoria didn’t always speak the same language as the relatives who visited, she says, but they felt united by the food.

“We ate, that’s how we communicated.”

The recipes like those for spinach fritada and meat-filled bourekas were nearly “unchanged for 500 years,” she says. They’re “almost exactly unchanged to what you would get in Spain or Portugal today.” Though, she adds, the name changed from empanadas to bourekas when the family, like many Sephardic Jews, moved to the Ottoman Empire. Others likely joined the family repertoire in Turkey like stuffed grape leaves called yaprak and leek and beef patties called keftes.

Victoria learned to make them from her grandmother growing up and when she lived a block away from her in her 20s. Determined to pass them on to the next generation, Victoria started to write a cookbook for her nieces after her grandmother passed away. As she made the recipes, though, some didn’t taste the way she remembered them. She called her uncle and asked what she was doing wrong. He asked about her ingredients. She had replaced fatty meat from the supermarket with grass-fed beef, and sourced the best vegetables she could find. That was the problem, he said. It’s not how Victoria’s grandmother cooked.

“It never occurred to me that better isn’t better,” she says. Some things simply aren't meant to be changed.

The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (12)

Recipes From This Family

Meat BourekasCooking Projects
Keftes (Leek and Beef Patties)Main Courses
Stewed String Beans With TomatoesEasy
Spinach FritadaEasy
Travados de Muez (Sweet Walnut-Filled Bourekas)Baking Projects
The 500-Year-Old Sephardic Recipes That Brought a Network of Cousins Together (2024)

FAQs

What is traditional Sephardic food? ›

Sephardic Food is a Tasty Tradition

The community's cuisine is a delicious combination of dishes from Greece, Turkey, North Africa and Spain. Delicacies bearing an Iberian influence include: albóndigas, espinacas con garbanzos, calabasas, fideo, biscochos and arroz con leche.

What is the Sephardic Jews diet? ›

Sephardi cuisine emphasizes salads, stuffed vegetables and vine leaves, olive oil, lentils, fresh and dried fruits, herbs and nuts, and chickpeas. Meat dishes often make use of lamb or ground beef. Fresh lemon juice is added to many soups and sauces.

What is the difference between Ashkenazi and Sephardic food? ›

Ashkenazi and Sephardic Jews have the same religious beliefs, but their cooking styles are vastly different. Ashkenazi foods are more familiar to American cooks (bagels, gefilte fish), while Sephardic foods tend to be more exotic in terms of flavor (hummus, baba ghanoush).

What do Sephardic Jews believe in? ›

Sephardic Jews practice standard Judaism, recognizing the Torah as their holy book. On the high holiday of Passover, Sephardic Jews eat foods that differ from Ashkenazi Jews, such as rice and corn products, and have different customs, such as reenacting the Jewish exodus from Egypt.

Which tribe are Sephardic Jews? ›

These provide basic information: Sephardic Jews are Spanish Jews who were forced to convert to Catholicism or face expulsion from Spain after 1492. In this great diasporic movement, 100,000-300,000 Spanish Jews (estimates vary) left Spain and settled in different parts of Europe and the Middle East.

What tribe were Sephardic Jews from? ›

In the narrower ethnic definition, a Sephardi Jew is one descended from the Jews who lived in the Iberian Peninsula in the late 15th century, immediately prior to the issuance of the Alhambra Decree of 1492 by order of the Catholic Monarchs in Spain, and the decree of 1496 in Portugal by order of King Manuel I.

Do Sephardic Jews have unique DNA? ›

Y-DNA of Mizrahi Jews

the authors show that Kurdish and Sephardi Jews have indistinguishable paternal genetic heritage, with both being similar to but slightly differing from Ashkenazi Jews (possibly due to a low-level European admixture or a genetic drift during isolation among Ashkenazim).

What diseases are Sephardic Jews prone to? ›

Sephardi and Mizrahi diseases
DiseaseMode of inheritanceGene or enzyme
CystinuriaEndocrinologyAutosomal recessive
Familial Mediterranean feverRheumatology, immunologyAutosomal recessive
Glycogen storage disease IIIEndocrinologyAutosomal recessive
Limb girdle muscular dystrophyNeurologyAutosomal recessive
6 more rows

Can Jews eat oatmeal? ›

Oats are widely considered chametz and are therefore forbidden during Passover.

Was Jesus a Sephardic? ›

Jesus was Jewish. He presumably had the skin colour of modern Sephardic Jews. He wore tzitzit, or fringes, that modern Orthodox Jews wear and donned the phylacteries that Jewish men still put on. He and his disciples kept kosher.

How do you tell if you are Sephardic? ›

How Do You Identify Sephardic Jews? The Ashkenazic and Sephardic Jews are most obviously differentiated by their naming patterns. The Ashkenazic Jews followed a patronymic system until the 1800s, when they were forced to take surnames.

Who are some famous Sephardic Jews? ›

Here are ten historically famous Sephardic Jews:
  • Maimonides (c. ...
  • Baruch Spinoza (1632-1677), Dutch rationalist philosopher.
  • Benjamin Disraeli (1804-1881), British Prime Minister.
  • Amedeo Modigliani (1884-1920), Italian painter and sculptor.
  • Boris Pasternak (1890-1960), Russian poet and novelist.
Sep 29, 2014

What percent of Israel is Sephardic? ›

About 85 percent of the world's Jews are considered Ashkenazim, the other 15 percent Sephardim. About 10 percent of the world's Ashkenazim live in Israel com- pared with about 80 percent of all Sephardim. The Sephardim make up about 55 percent of Israel's Jewish population and the Ashkenazim about 45 percent.

Where do most Sephardic Jews live? ›

Of the estimated 1.5 million Sephardic Jews worldwide in the early 21st century (far fewer than the Ashkenazim), the largest number were residing in the state of Israel. The chief rabbinate of Israel has both a Sephardic and an Ashkenazi chief rabbi.

What are Jews from Spain called? ›

Spanish and Portuguese Jews, also called Western Sephardim, Iberian Jews, or Peninsular Jews, are a distinctive sub-group of Sephardic Jews who are largely descended from Jews who lived as New Christians in the Iberian Peninsula during the few centuries following the forced expulsion of unconverted Jews from Spain in ...

Can Sephardic Jews have corn? ›

It is possible for corn tortillas to be kosher for Passover if the tortillas do not contain any wheat flour or wheat products. However, as corn fits into a subcategory called 'kitniyot', Ashkenazi Jews would not eat them, only some Sephardi groups.

Do Sephardic Jews eat corn? ›

Kitniyot technically refers to legumes, but during Passover it gets even broader, and can include rice, corn, sesame seeds, and lentils. The Ashkenazi Jews traditionally do not eat kitniyot during Passover; the Sephardi do.

Do Sephardic Jews eat matzah? ›

Sephardic Jews typically cook with matzah itself rather than matzah meal. Matzah that is kosher for Passover is limited in Ashkenazi tradition to plain matzah made from flour and water. The flour may be whole grain or refined grain, but must be made from one of five grains: wheat, spelt, barley, rye, or oat.

Is fish and chips Sephardic? ›

Originally, Western Sephardic Jews settling in England in the 17th century would have prepared fried fish in a manner similar to 'Pescado frito', which is coated in flour. Battered fish is coated in flour and dipped into a batter consisting of flour mixed with liquid, usually water but sometimes beer.

References

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